Mt Spickard: Silver Lake Glacier Route
Fraser Valley Regional District County, British Columbia
Uploaded by Bivy Team

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17 :56 hrs
7.8 mi
6315 ft
I
Mountaineering

The Silver Lake Glacier pours off of the north face of Mt Spickard, a high and rugged peak just south of the international border, and makes for an interesting alternative ascent in place of the standard South Ridge route. While it's possible to reach the base of the glacier from Silver Lake, a much quicker approach is to follow the climber's trail to Lake Ouzel then take the large gully heading northeast toward the obvious notch northwest of the mountain. The toe of the glacier is right around the corner. The best way across the glacier normally is to make a rising traverse to the east, aiming for an 8,500 foot notch in the Northeast Ridge. There are several large crevasses on the glacier, so roping up is advised. From the high notch, follow the crest of the Northeast Ridge or venture onto the East Face where necessary to avoid steeper sections. Most of the climbing here is Class 3 but there are also several areas of Class 4, but unroped climbing is possible. For an easier return to Lake Ouzel, descend via the normal South Route along the South Ridge.

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